(FROM THE WALL STREET JOURNAL ASIA 12/15/14) 
   By Alyssa Abkowitz and Laurie Burkitt 

BEIJING -- Chinese food chains are aiming to eat McDonald's and KFC for lunch.

Xiabuxiabu Catering Management Holdings Co. serves Chinese hot pot, in which customers cook meat and vegetables themselves in a broth. Xiabuxiabu Catering is seeking upward of 1.14 billion Hong Kong dollars ($147 million) in an initial public offering of stock that will help it double its store count in China to nearly 1,000 outlets in the next four years.

Taiwanese company Ting Hsin International Group, which owns the Dicos fried-chicken chain, rolled out 948 restaurants from 2011 to 2013 and now runs more than 2,000 Dicos stores, according to market-research firm Mintel. European private-equity firm CVC Capital Partners earlier this year acquired a controlling stake in Da Niang Dumplings Holdings, a dumpling chain with more than 400 restaurants, citing a desire to "take the company to the next level." CVC declined to comment on expansion plans.

Local Chinese dining chains are expanding rapidly in China to capture a slice of the 560 billion yuan ($90.5 billion) fast-food and casual-dining market.

They want to attract customers such as Li Xiangye, who says he doesn't have time to cook. While he dines at McDonald's on occasion, mostly for breakfast, he prefers Chinese chains.

"Chinese chains have better food," says the 40-year-old from China's northeastern city of Changchun, adding that he considers their food to be healthier and to taste more authentic.

The larger and well-funded local rivals mean increased competition for Yum Brands Inc.'s KFC and for McDonald's Corp., which both consider China a core part of their international growth efforts. The China market share of Yum Brands -- which runs more than 6,200 KFC, Pizza Hut, East Dawning and Little Sheep restaurants in the country -- fell to 5.1% in 2013 from 6.4% in 2012, according to data provider Euromonitor International, which says local rivals took up the slack. Ting Hsin's market share, for example, ticked up to 1.8% from 1.6% during the same period.

A spokeswoman for Yum says changes in the market reflect atypical problems -- a food scare at a supplier -- that Yum has now addressed. "We are confident that our sales in China will continue to recover as these actions have their intended effect," a spokeswoman for the company says.

Yum said Tuesday that its same-store sales in China for the year would be negative on a percentage basis.

The Western brands have run up against scrutiny from Chinese officials and the local media of their health practices and the quality of their suppliers. A spokeswoman for McDonald's, which has more than 2,000 restaurants in China, says the chain remains a top brand there and that it is "bullish" about growth in China. To assure consumers of safety, McDonald's says it has set up hot lines and installed cameras to oversee its supply chain. Yum says it has cut smaller suppliers to ensure quality control and that it has overhauled its menus and marketing.

When they entered China more than 20 years ago, KFC and McDonald's initially prospered in a fragmented market full of mom-and-pop noodle shops and local dumpling chains. Chinese diners in the past decade turned to the Western chains for a dining experience beyond fried rice, to celebrate special occasions and because the Western restaurants were perceived as safer and cleaner than local alternatives.

Yang Qiaozhen says she eats at McDonald's a few times a week. "I like the fries," says Ms. Yang, 19 years old. "I also like the adventure," she says, adding that she and her friends like trying out food from other countries.

But in less-developed cities, the U.S. hamburger chain is facing increased competition from local operators such as Hua Lai Shi Catering Management & Service Co., which has opened 3,000 stores selling fried chicken and french fries. The company's number of restaurants nearly doubled from 2011 to 2013, according to Mintel.

Esther Lau, a research analyst at Mintel, says consumers are gradually switching to Chinese-style fast food because it is "more diversified." She adds that Western brands are trying to use their prime locations and creativity to restore brand image and regain market share.

Analysts say the biggest challenge facing Chinese chains' expansion is scalability. Western-style food often entails simple preparation and fewer ingredients than Chinese food, making standardization of a meal easier.

"When you need all those ingredients [for Chinese dishes], food costs are much higher, which could be the difference between being profitable and having a very low margin," says Sara Senatore, a senior restaurant analyst at Sanford C. Bernstein & Co.

The complexity of Chinese food explains why the market for Middle Kingdom chains is highly fragmented, with regional tastes and varying cooking techniques. Still, that smaller size means some Chinese chains could customize menus to appeal to increasingly health-conscious consumers more easily than large-scale foreign fast-food companies, says Ms. Lau. "In the end, it could prove to be highly lucrative for them," she says.

A trend that is helping Chinese chains is a greater awareness of nutrition. Kung Fu Catering Management Co., for example, emphasizes steamed dishes, which benefits the company in a fast-food market that is starting to reach its saturation point, says Ben Cavender, a principal at Shanghai-based consultancy China Market Research.

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